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第一章

绿色的集市
Chapter One Green Fair

Sanlitun

三里屯那里花园,每周二上午都会迎来好多热爱绿色食物的赶集人,那里的有机农夫市集已经开了好多年了。白枫约了我,我约了小曹一起,在这个西班牙风格建筑的庭院里支满了白色的大伞,每个伞底下都值得停留。来的人不是拿着草篮子就是拿着环保袋,大家都不使用塑料袋。在这里,爱生活的人们都达成了共识:公平交易,不吃化肥种出来的食物。他们与种绿色食物的人之间有交流,也都相互认识。

Every Tuesday, the Nali Patio in Sanlitun is crowded with people who love organic foods. Bai Feng took me and I took Xiao Cao to the farmers' fair. The Spanish-style yard was full of white sunshades, under which were stalls of green vegetables and organic foods. People came with their straw baskets or recycled bags,instead of plastic ones, being confident that there would be no cheating here. They were the people who loved life and green food and fair trade.

我先等着吃太平老农红姐家刚蒸出的包子,又等了半张现烙的饼,边吃边慢逛,小曹带着孩子坐下来吃买的小吃。细活裡慧姐的柜台那儿总是一片各种好看的蓝拼出的各种自己使用或者送人的好礼物:南通蓝印花布的薰衣草枕头,公平交易项目从青藏来的驼色围巾,旅行飞行时可以换上的蓝布鞋,她不停地根据生活的需要创新,让人看得喜欢。转了小半圈,我发现了一种好看的黑色小陶酒瓶,排了一排,品尝了他递过来的一小杯淡黄色米酒,他说这是栀子花酒,我第一次喝。他接着介绍在安徽太湖有个栀子花岛,开花的时候就睡在香气里,他去那里采栀子花然后回福建灵村酿酒,卖酒的秦明就这样认识了。他的几句话,像一个牧童给我指引出了一个遥远存在的、开满栀子花的小岛。

I strolled around, eating a hot steamed stufed bun and half a baked bread newly out of the pan. There was a stall with items in all kinds of blue colors, such as lavender pillows from Natong, camel hair scarves from Tibet, cloth shoes for plane travel, and everything that was designed to satisfy the demands of comfortable life. It's hard to move your eyes away. Soon, I came to a stall with small black earthen bottles lining in a neat row. The man gave me a cup of light yellowish wine. He said it was Gardenia wine, which I had never had before. He continued to say there was a gardenia Island in Taihu Lake in Anhui. In blooming season, the air would be full of the wonderful scent of gardenia. He picked the flowers of the trees and brewed gardenia wine in Lingcun Village in Fujian. That's how I got to know the wine seller Qin Ming. He pictured me a dreamy remote island covered with blooming gardenia flowers.

咋去?有地址电话吗?秦明大方地给了我栀子花岛主的微信,他说每年只有五月开花。我加了岛主的微信,说是秦明的朋友,想以后去,这一想就过去了好多年,栀子花岛离我的生活好远呢。有一年,看见岛主说发大水损失惨重,栀子花开在孤独的水中。我觉得更过不去了。

'How could I get there? Could I have the address or a telephone number?' Qin Ming generously gave me the WeChat of the island owner and told me that May was the best season for gardenia flowers. The Gardenia Island was so far away from my life. I nearly forgot about it. But one day I saw on the island owner's WeChat that the Gardenia Island was drowned. Seeing the gardenia struggling to hold its flowers above the flood, I was so sad when I thought I might never get the chance.

卖酒人 秦明

Wine seller Qin Ming

2016 年 1 月 8 日的上午 9 时 59 分,我认识了做酒卖酒的秦明。

“昨天喝了你家的酒,能拿东西换吗?画或者是陶瓷。”

“没啥不可以的,送都可以!”秦明大方地说。

“冒昧问一句,您是专职画家?”

我刚给凯叔的书《给孩子们的 99 首诗》配了水墨插图,就也大方地承认:“是”。

“工作室在北京?”

“在宋庄。”

At 9:59 in the morning of Jan. 8, 2016, I got to know the wine seller Qin Ming.

----Could I exchange things for your wine, like paintings or ceramics?

----Sure. Take it for free as long as you like. Are you an artist?

I had just finished the ink-painting illustrations for the book 99 Poems for Children .

So I confidently answered by saying yes.

----Is your studio in Beijing?

----Songzhuang.

和秦明换米酒的《相逢对饮图》。

有一天秦明亲自来宋庄辛店 192 号送酒取画,那一阵子来找我玩的朋友都尝到了栀子花酒和桂花酒的美,不醉人又微醺。我散布的笔墨在纸里更伴随了些古意。

Drinking the Exchanged Wine with Friends: For quite a while, my friends who happened to come to my studio got the chance to drink the gardenia wine. I got drunk so often that my paintings at that time were blended with a kind of ancient poetic style.

秦明卖的是福建山城清流客家人古法制造的甜米酒。

The rice wine that Qin Ming sold is made in the way of ancient Hakka people of the mountain city Qingliu in Fujian.

松木猛火蒸透一季糯米,在酿酒的过程中缸口还放把刀辟邪。

Fresh sticky rice needs to be steamed well above hot burning pine wood, and a knife is often laid on the mouth of the earthenware wine-brewing jar.

我本不是个喜欢喝酒的人,但是这种古法酿制的栀子花酒就可以接受,买了瓶秦明在福建省清流县灵地镇灵地村造的酒,拿回家给喝了。小黑酒瓶子好看,喝完酒我妈说别扔了给我留着当花瓶,她散步的时候就顺手摘了一点点花草,放在画案子上美着。

I was not used to drinking, but this gardenia wine with its ancient brewing method was completely fine. I took the wine bottle home. Mom took it as a vase and put in the wild flowers that she picked on the way while strolling. It delighted the eyes.

2010 年 9 月创建的北京有机农夫市集,每个月在不同的地方举办,让我想起了以前曾经参加过的由单太太李祯举办的绿牛集市。她叫我去卖自己做的陶瓷。小孩子们去收割了的田地里把腿装进麻布口袋里赛跑,农村剥玉米粒的摇把机器都让孩子们兴奋不已。文明,似乎让我们离土地远了。

The Organic Farmers' Fair was started in Sept. 2010, held once every month in diferent places in Beijing. It reminded of me the Green Cow Fair initiated by Mrs. Shan, Li Zhen, who suggested that I sell the ceramics that I made. It reminded me also of the excitement of children racing in the field with their legs in jute bags and the swirling handle of the cornhusker in harvest season. Civilization has dragged us away from the land. bbuxwrasOpFgpMZ8jVetpsE3ZqdU5Sn5r3fAjqbAKDCkCnvmgKn7uaItxJVWZTmc

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