



这样一家古老的牛扒房,一定会有优秀的主厨及精美的菜肴。事实的确是这样,很快,一位年轻、身材略显单薄且颜值很高的华人主厨站在我的面前,互相自我介绍后,我们来了个大大的拥抱。
刘奇量(Forrest Liu),24岁,上海人。他从小喜欢做手工,喜欢在厨房里跟着父母学做菜,16岁入读上海烹饪学校。上学期间,他先到潮州菜馆打工,了解广东菜的特点,用新鲜的食材烹制中国美食,这对他后来烹制西餐有很大的影响。后来,他去了米其林三星大厨让-乔治(Jean-Georges)在上海开的法国餐厅,接受了一年米其林三星标准的魔鬼式训练。他从实习生做起,仅用半年时间就被聘为厨师,并晋升为领班,他是这家餐厅开业六年以来,第一位在这么短的时间内得到让-乔治认可的中国人。在这家餐厅工作的两年时间,他深深地体会到了世界级名厨对烹饪品质的极致追求。
他通过应聘来到上海香格里拉36层翡翠餐厅,这是一家殿堂级别的传统法式餐厅,每晚只接待40名客人。每天处理着新鲜的会蠕动的蜗牛和鱼类,当它们呈现在客人面前的时候,客人们的满足感和赞许声深深触动着他。在此一年的历练使他深知精美菜肴的呈现,对食物的新鲜度有很大的要求。成为一名米其林大厨、拥有一家米其林餐厅的梦想深深地“刻”在他的脑海中,外面的世界很精彩,他要出去看看。
 
    
    
   后来,他考取了加拿大著名的乔治布朗学院(George Brown College),开始了在多伦多的生活。有位导师曾问他:“你是日本人,还是韩国人?”他说:“我是中国人。”导师很认真地说:“看你做的菜,就知道中国发生了很大的变化。”这句话,让他对烹饪创新的想法更加强烈。学习的第三年,他每天早上六点起床去学校,在学校的餐厅实习结束后,又到加拿大排名前十的独木舟(Canoe)餐厅工作,每天只睡三四个小时,甚至有过三十六个小时没有睡觉的经历。再苦再累,他都告诉自己:“坚持,坚持!”
毕业后,他来到北美著名的华人厨师李国伟(Susur Lee)的餐厅工作。工作之余他在面朝安大略湖的公寓开启了自己的“私人厨房”,不断地研究新菜式,邀请朋友们来品尝,在网络上很火。这时,黄家祥找到了他,开始了他与卡门牛扒房的缘分,也是他梦想开始的地方。
怀着对食物的虔诚,我走进卡门牛扒房的厨房,见证了刘大厨如变魔术般呈现出一道道精致、美味的西餐。
In such a legendary old steak house like Carmen’s, there must be an excellent chef for finecuisine. Standing in front of me was a handsome young man and Chef at Carmen’s, and after weintroduced ourselves, we gave each other a big hug.
Qiliang Liu (Forrest) is 24 years old and comes from Shanghai, China. He learned cookingfrom his parents when he was a little boy. He went to cooking school when he was 16 years old,and also took a part time job in a Cantonese restaurant at that time. It was at this restaurantthat he got to know the characteristics of Cantonese cuisine, he also learned how to use freshingredients to cook, which set up the foundation for his later career as a Western cuisine chef.After that, he went to Jean Georges’ Michelin Three-Star Restaurant in Shanghai, which wascalled the West Point in Shanghai Western cuisine restaurant. He was trained here madly forone year. At first, he was just an intern; but because he really did a good job, it took him only halfyear to become a real chef with a salary to match, and eventually became the team leader. Therestaurant has been opened for 6 years and he is the first Chinese chef to be appreciated byJean Georges in such a short time. He worked here for two years, and he deeply understands themeaning of pursuing high-quality and strict requirements of Western cuisine as a world-class chef.
The Jade on 36 Restaurant-Bar in East Shanghai Pudong Shangri-La is a very traditionaland gorgeous restaurant, which is famous for its French cuisine. It only serves 40 guestsevery evening, and Forrest was hired as a Poisonnier or Fish station chef. Every day, Forrestcarefully dealt with fresh escargots and fish, when dishes were served in front of the guests, theirsatisfaction and praise were the motive and reward for him. After one year’s experience of workinghere, he knew how to display every dish to its perfection and punctiliously keep their freshness.He wishes to become a Michelin star chef and own a Michelin star restaurant one day. Thesedreams are deeply carved in his mind, and he decided to study abroad and broaden his horizon.
He was admitted to the renowned George Brown College later and started his new life inToronto. Once a tutor asked him if he was Japanese or Korean, he answered without doubt thathe was a Chinese and then the tutor looked at him seriously, and said that he could tell fromForrest’s dishes that China must have developed a lot and changed rapidly these days. Withthese words, Forrest became even more eager to learn new ideas and skills of cooking. In thethird year of his college, he got up at 6 o’clock every morning and went to school. After finishinghis internship in college’s student restaurant, he went to work at Canoe, one of Canada’s Top TenRestaurant. He slept three to four hours every day; and once, he even did not sleep for 36 hours.No matter how hard it was, he told himself to persist and keep going.
After graduation, he went to work for Susur Lee, a popular Chinese chef’s restaurant. Helived in an apartment in the downtown Toronto. After work, he would always create new dishesat home. He kept studying and creating new dishes and would invite his friends to try his newdishes. Meanwhile, he put his creations on the World Journal interview and got a lot of feedback.This was how Jason found him and how they started the business at Carmen’s Steak House.
I walked into the kitchen of Carmen’s Steak House with the respect for cuisine, and Iwatched how Forrest Liu made stunning and sumptuous dishes magically.
 
   材 料: 新鲜牛里脊肉100克、洋葱、意大利西芹、辣椒油、橄榄油、芥末、盐、香料(1个鹌鹑蛋蛋黄、洋葱碎、切碎的罐装酱菜、白兰地调和)、面包片
做 法: 从冰箱取出冷藏的新鲜牛里脊肉,不需水洗,将其剁碎,用调料拌制,放在烘烤过的面包片上。
Ingredient: fresh beef sirloin 100g, onions, parsley, chili oil, olive oil, mustard, salt, spices (egg yolk of a quailegg, onion pieces, canned pickled vegetables, brandy), sliced bread
Method: Take the fresh sirloin out, do not wash it, cut it into pieces and mix it with the sauce, and then put it on toast.
 
    
    
   在巴黎餐厅里常看到用新鲜的生牛肉、生鲑鱼或生干贝做成的法式鞑靼。传统的鞑靼牛肉,是精选牛身上最嫩、最昂贵的部位里脊肉制成生肉碎,加上各种调料及法式酱菜,最后压成一个肉饼而成。
生牛肉刚从冰箱取出时呈鲜红色,若在室温下放置太久颜色就会变成灰色,所以须将牛肉迅速剁碎并拌好。用小勺轻轻舀起鲜红色的生牛肉,放在面包片上,咔嚓一声,香脆的面包与略带狂野气息的生牛肉在嘴中“炸”开,顿觉牛肉鲜美、嫩滑,与多种香味一起让人回味无穷!这道菜加入了中国元素,用辣椒和豆豉低温熬制的辣椒油。就是这少许辣椒油,让第一次吃生牛肉的我,瞬间爱上了它。
Tartare is a common dish in many French restaurants – sirloin, salmon and scallop can all be made into tartare. Traditionalsteak tartare is made of the most fresh and expensive part of choice cattle, which is cut into pieces, added different spices andFrench pickled vegetables and finally pressed into a meat cake.
When raw beef is taken freshly from the fridge, it is scarlet; it cannot be left too long in the open air, or else it will becomegray. Therefore, raw beef should be shredded and mixed with sauce as soon as possible. Scoop some scarlet beef pieces ontoa slice of toast; when you eat, you can hear a clear “crack” sound – crispy bread and wild raw beef crash inside your mouth, youcan taste the freshness, smoothness and elasticity of the beef with different flavors, it is impressive and unforgettable! This beeftartare contained Chinese spices like chili oil, which is made from chili and salted black beans. It is the chili oil that made me fallin love with beef tartare on the first try.
 
   材 料: 新鲜扇贝、青豆、小红萝卜、藜麦、鸡汤、柠檬啫喱、七味粉、海盐、黄油、芥花油、茉莉花奶茶泡、西洋菜苗
做 法: 1.将扇贝壳刷洗干净,撬开扇贝壳,用专用刀将扇贝肉片出,去掉黑色沙包,冲洗干净后用厨房纸吸干水分。
2.平底锅放入芥花油,以400℉[摄氏温度转华氏温度公式: t (℉)=32+ t (℃)×1.8]左右的油温将扇贝每面煎至金黄(约30秒),不放调料。
3.煎扇贝的同时,将青豆、黄油、藜麦、鸡汤放入锅中煮成稠状,煮好后盛入盘中,再放扇贝,上面放柠檬啫喱、茉莉花奶茶泡,撒七味粉,最后用西洋菜苗和小红萝卜片点缀。
Ingredient: fresh scallop, beans, mini radish, quinoa, chicken soup, lemon jelly, shichimi, sea salt, butter,canola oil, jasmine cream, watercress sprout
Method: 1. Wash scallop, then lift its shell, use a special knife to take out the flesh, get the black sand off,wash it again and put it on the kitchen tissue to let it dry.
2. Pour some canola oil into the pan, fry each side of the scallop meat at 400°F for 30 seconds until itbecomes browned, do not put any sauce.
3. Put the beans, butter, quinoa and chicken soup into another pan and broil them until the sauce is thickened.Pour it in a plate, put the fried scallop meat, and then pour lemon jelly and jasmine cream on top. Sprinkle withshichimi and decorate it with watercress sprout and sliced mini radish.
 
    
    
    
   扇贝新鲜,不需加调料,突出了扇贝本身的鲜味。以精准的时间和经验将扇贝煎成表面微黄,里面却鲜嫩无比。若煎得太久,扇贝的口感就如同橡胶。在水煮的茉莉花茶中加入奶油、海盐收汁后冷却,然后将茉莉花茶灌入真空罐,注入氮气,茉莉花茶在真空下化成极小的分子,挤在扇贝上看起来像棉花一样,实现酱汁与茉莉花香的完美融合。让我印象深刻的是最后放上的一点柠檬啫喱,酸味提升了鲜味。扇贝外表焦脆,里面鲜嫩,可看到如蚕丝般的纹路,还有淡淡的海盐、茉莉花香,搭配清新的青豆、略带嚼劲的藜麦、酸酸的柠檬啫哩,我仿佛吃到了春天的味道!
分子料理是烹饪学里的一个概念,它使食物发生物理或化学变化,从而把食材的原有味道、形态完全打破,我觉得是一种很神奇的烹饪方法。
The scallop was very fresh, it was fried without any sauce at first to let its own flavor stand out. To make each side of thscallop crispy and golden, you need sophisticated time management; if you fry it for too long, its flesh will taste rubbery. Pourcream and sea salt into jasmine tea, cook until it gets thickened. Let it cool and put it into a vacuum bottle, then add nitrogen.The jasmine tea will become foam in the vacuum bottle. Squeeze the cream on to the scallop meat. It is a perfect combination ofsauce and the fragrance of jasmine. What made the biggest impression for me was the lemon jelly, which can bring freshnessand arouse people’s appetite. The scallop meat was crispy outside and tender inside, you could see the silky texture and tastethe sea salt, jasmine, fresh beans, chewy quinoa and sour lemon jelly – it was like a bite of spring!
This dish used molecular gastronomy, which is a special technique in gastronomic science. Molecular gastronomy usesphysical and chemical reactions to create new forms and taste for food, it might be considered magic!
 
   材 料: 意大利大米、小红萝卜、鳕鱼、味噌、菠菜泥、柴鱼片、西洋菜叶子、奶酪、盐、浓鸡汤、日本清酒、糖、黄油
做 法: 1.将意大利大米洗净,放入酒、浓鸡汤煮成半熟,冷却,再加入糖、黄油、奶酪一起煮,煮到像粥一样,再放入菠菜泥,做成意大利烩饭。
2.用味噌、糖、清酒搅拌的汁涂抹在鳕鱼上,放在保鲜盒中,密封后放入冰箱腌3天入味。隔天把鱼片上下翻转,使鳕鱼均匀地浸泡在味噌中。腌好后,把鳕鱼放入冰箱速冻。做这道菜时将味噌鳕鱼用锡纸包好,放入烤箱600℉烤2分钟左右。
3.将意大利烩饭放入盘中,再放上味噌鳕鱼,用柴鱼片、西洋菜叶子和小红萝卜点缀。
Ingredient: arborio rice, little radish, sea bass, miso paste, spinach puree, bonito flakes, watercress leaves,cheese, salt, thick chicken soup, sake, sugar, butter
Method: 1. Wash Arborio rice, pour wine and thick chicken soup into it and boil until it is half done. Let it cool.Put sugar, butter, cheese in the rice, boil it until it becomes porridge, then add spinach puree and make risotto.
 
    
   2. Mix miso paste, sugar and sake together, then wipe it on the sea bass. Put it in the fridge for three days,remember to turn it over the next day to make sure each side is marinated. When it is ready, take it out andwrap it with a piece of tinfoil, then put it in the oven and broil it at 600°F for two minutes.
3. Put the braised Italian rice into a plate, then put the miso sea bass beside it. You can also add some skipjackflake, watercress leaves and little radish on it.
这道菜的灵感来自中国广东地区的潮州粥,是一道花心思烹煮的菜。用走地鸡熬煮8小时以上的浓鸡汤与略带嚼劲的意大利米一起煮,香气扑鼻;为保持菠菜碧绿的颜色,菠菜泥不能放得太早;来自阿拉斯加的深海鳕鱼腌制后高温烤制,瞬间“锁”住鳕鱼的水分,鱼肉鲜嫩美味。
The inspiration for this dish comes from Cantonese congee, which needs time and patience. Use choice fowl and cook itfor over eight hours, and then put Italian rice into the chicken soup, it smells so nice; to maintain the color of the spinach, youcannot put it too early into the pot; roast the marinated Alaska sea bass, it will preserve its juice immediately and make its meattender and tasty.
材 料: 加拿大顶级新鲜牛肉、色拉油、黑胡椒、海盐、百里香、西洋菜苗、牛尾汤
做 法: 1.高温铁板上放色拉油,将牛肉放在600℉的铁板上两面煎制变色(每面煎1分钟左右),煎的过程中,淋少许油在铁板和肉上,撒盐和黑胡椒。
2.再将牛肉放入烤箱500℉烤5分钟左右,将温度计插入牛肉中探测牛肉的温度,当温度达到125℉时,牛肉达到三成熟。取出牛肉,静置3~5分钟,浇上用牛尾汤熬制的浓汁,用小西洋菜苗点缀。
 
    
   Ingredient: canadian Prime steak, salad oil, blackpepper, sea salt, thyme, watercress sprout, ox tailjus
Method: 1. Pour salad oil into a hot iron plate, putthe steak in the plate and grill each side at 600°Ffor about one minute until it is lightly browned.Drizzle with some oil on the meat and plate whilegrilling. Sprinkle some sea salt and black pepperon it.
2. Put the steak into an oven and cook at 500°F for5 minutes. Put a thermometer in the steak to testits temperature. When it reaches 125°F, it is rare.Take it out of the oven and put it on a plate, after3-5 minutes, pour ox tail soup on it and decorate itwith watercress sprout.
在我的美食体验中,很少尝到这么好吃的牛排。首选全加拿大仅2%的优质牛身上前腰脊肉肥美多汁的上乘牛排,这部分有漂亮的雪花纹路,肥瘦比例均匀,色泽鲜亮诱人。牛肉撒海盐和黑胡椒后在高温铁板上每面煎制至变色,迅速“锁”住牛肉的水分。入烤箱高温烤制后,取出静置,是因为在煎和烤的过程中,水分已经流失,静置后,水分可以慢慢地从中间回到肉的四周。这道菜的牛排外表呈褐色,肉香扑鼻,切开后,肉汁流出,透出牛肉嫩嫩的粉红色。吃起来,外焦里嫩,还有淡淡的咸味和甜味,口感柔软。向刘大厨请教后才知道,这是2%的加拿大优质牛吃的是玉米的缘故。
This is one of the best steaks that I have ever tasted. The best choice of steak is the juicy sirloin, which is among top 2%steaks in Canada – it has beautiful texture like snowflake or marble, its meat is between lean and fatty, it is red and white andhas a luscious gloss. Fry each side of the steak in an iron plate and spread sea salt and black pepper at each side. With hightemperature, its water can be better preserved. After taking it out of the oven, let it sit for a while. When it is broiled, its juice willbe lost; when placing it in the air, its juice will return to the middle. The steak looks brown on the outside and is fragrant; whencutting it, the meat juice comes out and the meat looks pink on the inside. A little salt and pepper can make the taste multipleand be richer. After asking Forrest, I got to know that the sweetness of these top 2% steaks comes from the beef itself becauseCanadian cattle eat corn.
 
   材 料: 70%黑巧克力块90克、淡奶油40毫升、黄油40克、鸡蛋50克、糖粉50克、高筋面粉20克、色拉油
做 法: 1.将淡奶油40毫升加热至沸腾后离火,趁热加入黑巧克力块50克,搅拌溶化成巧克力内馅,放入冰箱冷藏直到凝固,取出备用。
2.将黑巧克力块40克和黄油隔水加热直到溶化,搅拌均匀。
3.将鸡蛋和糖粉打发成浓稠状的鸡蛋液(拿起打蛋器,蛋液呈粗线状缓慢流下),然后加入巧克力和黄油搅拌均匀,再加入高筋面粉搅拌成面糊。在模具内涂抹一层色拉油以便脱模,然后把面糊取一部分倒入4个模具中,用勺子挖一块巧克力内馅放到模具中间,把剩余的面糊分别倒入4个模具中至七分满,放入烤箱中层350℉烤15分钟左右出炉。
 
   Ingredient: 70% dark chocolate 90g, light cream 40ml,butter 40g, egg 50g, sugar 50g, bread flour 20g, salad oil
Method: 1. Boil the light cream, when it is still hot,put 50g dark chocolate inside. Whisk until it becomescreamy, then put it in the fridge until it is frozen.
2. Steam 40g dark chocolate and butter until they melt,mix them together properly.
3. Whisk an egg and sugar into creamy liquid (whenyou hold the eggbeater in the air, you can see it streamsmoothly). Then stir chocolate and butter, and mix themwith bread flour. Wipe some salad oil in the cake mold,then pour dough in four different molds, scoop chocolatestuffing and put it inside each mold, cover them with therest dough until it is 70% full. Put molds in the middle ofthe oven and bake at 350°F for fifteen minutes.
蛋糕中的“熔岩”特别考验功夫,难度在于精准地把握烘烤的时间和温度。切开蛋糕,巧克力浓浆会像火山熔岩一样缓缓溢出,甜味和苦味逐渐融合,找到一个平衡点。蛋糕冰凉可口,甜度适中,能盖住之前所吃的菜的各种味道,让你的口腔中弥漫着巧克力的香甜味道,幸福、开心的感觉油然而生。
The “lava” is the most difficult part of making the cake because you need to manage the baking time and temperatureprecisely. When you cut the cake in half, the chocolate stuffing spills out slowly like lava, and its bitterness is balanced withsweetness. The lava cake tastes cool and delicate with a medium sweetness, which can cover all taste of the dishes that youjust had and fill your mouth with the fragrance of chocolate. Then, happiness and fulfillment appear from the bottom of youheart.