康有为先生曾这样描写过青岛:红瓦绿树,碧海蓝天,不寒不暑,可车可舟。这种观点后被世人认可,并渐渐成为了青岛城市特色的代名词。漫步青岛老城的大街小巷,感受到的,不仅是建筑风格的精美多样,还有道路走向顺应地形、建筑布局巧借地势所展现出的融洽和协调。这种独具特色的山、海、城融为一体的城市风貌亦反映了近代西方文化对青岛城市建设的影响。如果说建筑是凝固的音符,那么历史建筑就是城市历史和文化的乐章。青岛的历史建筑以其特有的神态,诉说着这座城市的历史和文化,见证着城市的变迁。
青岛自1897年建置以来,先后遭到当时新兴资本主义国家德国和日本的殖民统治,政权几经更迭,城市历经沧桑。见证了德国海外扩张模式的选择、帝国主义瓜分中国狂潮的掀起、日本崛起、第一次世界大战、美国东亚政策变化等对二十世纪前期世界格局影响重大的事件。日本取代德国占领青岛后,抛出意在灭亡中国的《二十一条》,由此爆发的“五四”爱国运动更是改变了中国历史的发展轨迹。正是由于青岛的重要性,直接或间接的引发了一系列重大军事、政治事件。这些重大历史事件及其所产生的重大社会影响,奠定了青岛在中国近现代历史上的重要地位。特殊的政治背景和独有的发展历程,赋予青岛以丰富的历史内涵,产生了独具特色的历史风貌区,造就了丰富多彩的历史建筑群。
德国人占据青岛后,采用十九世纪末二十世纪初最先进的城市规划思想来建设青岛,使青岛城市在建设之初就一直有城市规划的指导。城市的功能布局充分尊重和依托自然地形特征,城市中心区选定在青岛湾北部较为平坦的海滨区域,贴近中心区北面和东面规划建设欧洲人居住区;南部沿海迂回曲折的岸线和众多的海湾成为旅游和疗养的最佳场所;结合胶州湾东岸的岸线和地形布置海港、铁路站场和工厂;城市道路顺应地形布局成自由式、棋盘式、放射状等形态,主要街道通山面海,道路尽端和转折点布置标志性建筑,形成了良好的街道对景。在局部的区域规划中,顺应环境与自然地势,街巷、景观、建筑布局在融合中相得益彰,城市设计的精彩笔触随处可见。如小鱼山周边区域,道路依山体等高线环山而就,垂直等高线则用石阶连接形成特色小巷,建筑因地势环山而建,成功地将建筑与山、海和谐地融为一体。而八大关、太平角地区更是将建筑融于自然环境的佳作,顺应地势和岸线的路网格局联系建筑与公共空间,建筑点缀其中丰富着环境,漫步其中舒爽惬意。这种建城理念虽然经历城市规模不断扩张,但仍很好地传承了下来。成为今日解读近现代城市规划思想的范例城市之一。
在各个不同历史时期设计建造的风格各异的历史建筑数量多且分布集中,大部分沿前海一线呈“ L”形分布,成为构成青岛历史风貌区的重要要素之一。这些历史建筑在选址建造过程中,体现了相近年代、相似形式、相同功能集中成片区分布的特征,而且各风貌区间保持着独有的特征。在当时的建造过程中,当局者通过制定严格的建筑法规,明确的对建筑的高度、造型、容量及间距加以控制,成就了体量、高度、比例恰当的街道空间组织关系。
建筑类型归纳起来主要有类型丰富的公共建筑、独立式居住建筑和中西合璧的里院建筑。
公共建筑主要集中分布于太平路、中山路、馆陶路等历史风貌区,集中建设于德占期和国民政府时期,是当时的行政、文化、商业及金融中心。表现出“门类齐全,风格多样,设计考究,建造精良”的特点,代表了当时较高建筑规格、技术和艺术水准。古典主义、德国巴洛克、殖民地式、折中主义、中国传统复兴风格等各种各样风格的建筑组合在一起,构成了丰富的街道景观。建筑功能类型多样,有商业建筑、办公建筑、旅馆疗养院建筑、市政服务建筑、医疗建筑、教育建筑、金融建筑、交通运输建筑等等,体现了当时发达的城市服务和现代化水平。
坐落于丘陵山麓的独立式居住建筑,反映了青岛殖民历史和中西文化碰撞交融的特色。这些独立式居住建筑集中分布于小鱼山、八关山、信号山、观海山、观象山等历史风貌区内,是当时的欧洲人居住区。建筑依托山体、丘陵地形簇群而居,一脉承袭了“依山面海、随坡就势、错落有致、庭院宜人、建筑精巧”的建设理念,是青岛“红瓦绿树、碧海蓝天”特色风貌的集中体现。
中西合璧的里院建筑是近代青岛的典型民居,分布于当时的华人居住区。老青岛各机关企事业单位的小职员、海陆军下级军官、公路铁路员工以及警务人员、小商贩、教职员工、小手工业者、产业工人、人力车夫等多居住于里院。青岛的里院具有独特的建筑形式。从规模来看,小到一户一“里”,大到百户一“里”不等;从空间形式来看,其院落又可分为“口、日、凸、目、回”五种类型,依次为独院、两进院、不规则院、三进院、套院等。青岛的“里院”无疑是我国古代市井居所的一种保留和继承,是洋楼与中国四合院的一种结合。里院建筑见证了青岛早期的繁荣商业文明和多元的市井文化,是青岛殖民统治时期华人营城的开元,中西合璧的建筑风格、丰富多样的围合式院落组群,是青岛本土建筑形式的典型代表,可与上海的“里弄建筑”、北京的“四合院建筑”相提并论,是传承青岛城市记忆与地域文化的重要物质载体。
有人说:走进青岛,如同走进万国建筑的博览会,这句话也许并不夸张。今日青岛老城的历史建筑群能够较为完整的保留,得益于决策者将城市中心东移的战略性决定。“脱开老城在东部建设新城”的城市规划思路,使青岛老城区完整保留,在这一老一新之间,青岛的浪漫与风情被诠释得淋漓尽致。在推进新型城镇化发展的今天,城市规划不仅要放眼未来,还要尊重过去。城市建设在打开全新视野的同时,还应该引起市民对现在与回忆的共鸣。从事青岛历史文化名城保护工作多年,深感要读懂一个城市并不容易,建筑遗产的保护和利用面临着种种现实的困难,期望在城市快速发展的同时,当代人能够多了解城市的过去,慎重、理性地面对城市的历史文化遗产。期望这本历史建筑地图能对您“阅读青岛城市风貌、体验青岛历史内涵”有所帮助,更期望能对青岛建筑遗产的有效保护、合理利用起到积极的促进作用。
2013年9月
Kang Youwei, an enlightenment pioneer of China, once described the cityscape of Qingdao as such: "Qingdao is noted for its red-tiled buildings, lush trees, blue sea; its picture-perfect cityscape is unparalleled in China." His appreciative note is well recognized by later generations and gradually becomes an oft-quoted depiction of Qingdao. Take a stroll in the streets of the old town of Qingdao, you will be well impressed by the harmonious adaptation of the buildings to the terrains and the wellcalculated layout that mix comfortably with the mountains and the sea. This unique blend of architectural contour and its integration with sea and mountain is a visual reminder of the impact of the 19-century Western culture on Qingdao. A familiar saying goes that architecture is music notes in their frozen form; logically, historic buildings can be comparable to a movement in the symphony of a city's history and culture. With its self-styled features, the historic buildings in Qingdao are a glittering showcase of the history and culture of the city, and a living witness to the groundbreaking changes it has undergone.
Since Qingdao was established as a city in 1897, it has been occupied successively by two emerging capitalist powers of Germany and Japan, and has experienced roller-coaster development with its several governing forces. It has witnessed a dazzling series of events that changed the early 20th century political map of the world, notably German chose overseas expansion as its policy, imperialist powers carved up China, Japan rose to prominence, World War I raged, and the U.S. changed its East Asia policy. After Japan took over Qingdao from the Germans, it aggressively demanded for the transfer of German interests in Shandong in a bid to further exploit China. The humiliation ignited Chinese students’ opposition move known as the "May Fourth" movement. The rebellion swept the entire country and proved to be a history-making event in China. The importance of Qingdao has directly or indirectly caused a major series of military and political events, whose significant social impact has determined the critical position of Qingdao in postOpium War China.
Qingdao’s special political background and unique urban development process have contributed to the rich history of the city, giving rise to the formation of its historic areas studded with historic buildings.
After they took over Qingdao, the Germans applied the cutting-edge urban planning philosophies at the turn of the 20th century's to the building of Qingdao, which subjected the city to the guidance of urban planning right from the start of its construction. With the overall layout of the city tailored to the natural terrain features, the city was divided into several urban functional areas: The city center was located at the relatively flat coastal area, the residential areas of Europeans were close to the north and east of the central area, while the circuitous coastline and numerous bays were chosen to accommodate tourism and convalescence. Tailored to the east shoreline and terrain of the Jiaozhou Bay were the seaports, railway stations and factories. The urban road systems assume a good variety of forms as the terrain conditions, notably freestyle, checkerboard, radial and others, with the main streets leading to the mountains and the sea; at the ends or corners of the roads landmark buildings were erected, giving rise to fine street scenes. In the Yushan (Fish Hill) Historic District, the roads were planned allording to the mountain contours lines, while stone-paved alleys connect contour lines of different heights; the construction of buildings were tailored to the terrain, harmonious with the mountains and the sea. Although the city has undergone successive expansions, the urban planning philosophy has been well observed and has made Qingdao a role model of early 20th century urban planning.
Historic buildings in various styles erected in different periods are not only great in number but also grouped in clusters: About 90 percent of them are sited in the historic area that lines the sea. These historic buildings were constructed in the years close to each other; they present similar styles and same functions, and are distributed in a concentrated manner. Each historic area has its distinctive characteristics different from others. This is largely due to the strict building regulations in the construction process that the authorities set restrictions on the height, shape, size, leading to a well-proportioned street space that is appropriate in volume, height, and scale.
The types of historic building fall into the categories of public buildings, detached residential buildings and courtyard compounds.
The public buildings are clustered in the historic areas along Taiping, Zhongshan, and Guantao Roads, and most of them were built during the German occupation and the Nationalist government periods, forming the administrative, cultural, commercial and financial center of the city. They are characterized by their diverse styles, elegant designs, and highly skillful construction, thus can be fitting incarnations of the high building standards, techniques and artistry at that time. A myriads of styles, Classicism, Germany Baroque, colonial, eclectic, and Chinese revived traditional style, mixed together, forming a brilliant mosaic of streetscapes in Qingdao; these buildings have their own functions, and house respectively commercial institutions, offices, hotels and sanatoriums, municipal services, hospitals, schools, financial and transportation institutions, etc., reflecting the services and sophistication of the city.Detached residential building of high architectural value and quality highlight the colonial history of Qingdao and its east-meets-west hybrid culture. The detached residential buildings can be mainly clustered in Badaguan, Yushan, Baguanshan, Signal Hill, See-Viewing Mountain and other historic areas. Mainly accommodating Europeans, these buildings are erected in clusters on mountains and hill, testifying to the philosophy of complying with the geographic conditions of mountains and the sea, and are exquisitely designed with lovely courtyards, and prove to be a prominent feature of the celebrated cityscape, “red tiles and green trees, blue sea and indigo sky."
Courtyard compounds are a typical type of residences in Qingdao, particularly in the Chinese residential areas. Such buildings accommodate junior staff of institutions and enterprises, junior army and navy officers, highway and railway employees and police officers, vendors, teaching faculty, craftsmen, industrial workers, rickshaw pullers and others. The courtyard compounds have their unique architectural forms, and have buildings ranging from one to three storeys. In terms of their scales, such compounds can accommodate from one to a hundred households, and they assume five types of layouts. Such an architectural type undoubtedly has its root in ancient Chinese residences, and is also a prime example of the integration of the features of Western houses and Chinese quadrangle houses. Courtyard residences are a witness to the thriving commercial civilization and the diverse community culture; they are testimony to the Chinese construction efforts in the colonial era of Qingdao, while the hybrid architectural styles and various layouts are a distinctive feature of the local architecture, comparable to the lane (lilong) houses in Shanghai and the quadrangle compounds in Beijing in terms of their significance. They are physical repository of the city’s memory and local culture.
Qingdao is reputed to be a living museum of international architecture: The allegation may not be an exaggeration. The architectural contour preserves the memories of the city’s former self, and this is realized largely due to the urban development strategies by the city’s decision makers: The new swaths of urban areas are developed independently to the old town in the east, a strategy that helped preserve the old town. The contrast of the old and the new, the glamour of Qingdao is brought to its brilliant best. In order to help reader appreciate the historic buildings, and trace the past of the city, this volume seeks to select the major historic buildings in the preserved areas and to present them on one single map, in the hope to help you understand Qingdao and its history and, better yet, encourage you to pass on its historical and cultural heritage.
Lizhen Pan
September, 2013
注:
青岛历史城区内现有12片历史风貌区(历史文化街区)、1800余处历史建筑,本书选取具有典型特色的8片向读者介绍其中的200余处历史建筑,具体包括:中山路历史风貌区
注:
在本书中介绍的200余处历史建筑中,有43处经典公共建筑特别推荐读者优先参观考察,其空间分布位置如本图所示,图中建筑序号“X-Y”表示“风貌区序号——建筑序号”