品 类:箱包、成衣、腕表、珠宝
标志风格:时尚、高雅
创 始 人:路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)
诞 生 地:法国
诞生时间:1854年
百年历史的路易·威登,旅行箱超凡脱俗,定制的皮革时装高雅独特,成为享誉全球的品牌。
Louis Vuitton's heritage as a trunk maker preceded even the founding of the company. It was in 1837 that a 16-year-old Louis Vuitton arrived in Paris by foot and started apprenticing for Monsieur Marechal. At the time, horse-drawn carriages, boats and trains were the main modes of transportation, and baggage was handled roughly. Travelers called upon craftsmen to pack and protect their individual objects. Louis Vuitton quickly became a valued craftsman at the Parisian atelier of Monsieur Marechal. These were the roots of his highly specialized trade, the beginnings of his career in an artisanal industry that called upon skills to custom design boxes and, later, trunks according to clients' wishes. Louis Vuitton stayed for 17 years before opening his own workshop at 4 Rue Neuve-Capucines near the Place Vendome.
The early success of Louis Vuitton meant he had to expand his operations. This led to the 1859 opening of his atelier in Asnieres, just northeast of the center of Paris. The workshop started with 20 employees. In 1900, there were nearly 100 people and by 1914 there were 225. The original atelier has been expanded throughout the decades-including the addition of the Vuitton family residence-but it is still where products are crafted today. While the family home has been preserved and is part of a private museum, 170 craftsmen work in the Asnieres workshop, designing and creating leather goods and special orders for clients around the world.
At that time, travelers carried all their essentials inside wardrobes and flat trunks, which, unfortunately, often attracted burglars. Master trunk maker, Louis Vuitton sought to help his clients protect the goods inside their travel pieces.
In 1886, father and son, Georges, adopted a single lock system with two spring buckles. After several years of development, George patented this revolutionary system. It was so effective that he challenged Harry Houdini, the great American escape artist, in a public newspaper to escape from a Vuitton box and lock. Houdini didn't rise to the challenge, but the lock's effectiveness is indisputable . It is still used today.
To celebrate 100th anniversary of the Monogram canvas in 1996, Louis Vuitton invited designers to create unique pieces of luggage. The resulting collection was then exhibited in the world's great capitals, bringing the brand's spirit of innovation and collaboration to fashion lovers across the globe.
artisanal [ ] adj. 手工艺性的
atelier [ ] n. 工作室
indisputable [ ] adj. 无争议的
路易·威登在尚未成立公司之前,便因制作旅行箱而为人所熟知。1837年,年仅十六岁的路易·威登徒步前往巴黎,并当上马雷复尔先生的学徒。当时,马车、轮船和火车是主要的交通工具,行李则经常受到碰撞而磨损。因此,不少旅客要求工匠将行李打包以保护他们的个人物品。路易·威登很快便成为马雷复尔先生位于巴黎工作坊的一名重要工匠。这不仅为他日后专注于硬箱制造奠定了基础,更成为他传奇事业的开始。他凭借精湛的技艺,最初为顾客订制旅行箱,继而按顾客需求制作出各式各样的硬箱。路易·威登在此工作了十七年后,在芳登广场附近的Neuve-Capucines大道四号开设了首间工作室。
路易·威登取得成功后,遂着手扩充业务,并于1859年在巴黎市中心东北方向的Asnieres开设了首间工厂。Asnieres工厂初期聘请了20名员工。1900年,工厂的工匠接近100人,直至1914年便达到了225人。Asnieres工厂在过去数十年不断扩展,当中包括附加的威登家族的宅第部分,但工厂仍然是路易·威登产品的生产基地。家族大宅现已保留成为博物馆的一部分,170名工匠继续驻守工作坊,为世界各地的顾客设计并制作皮革制品及特别订制产品。
那时,旅客都会将所有必需品置于衣柜和箱子中,但这经常引来鼠窃之辈的垂涎。于是,拥有超凡制箱技艺的路易·威登便寻求方法,帮助顾客保护行李内的财物。
1886年,路易·威登和儿子乔治合力研发出一套配备两个弹簧扣的单锁系统。经过数年的发展,乔治为这个革命性的系统申请了专利,并公开在报纸上挑战美国脱逃大师哈利·胡迪尼,要他从路易·威登的箱子和箱锁系统中逃脱。胡迪尼并没有接受挑战,但这套系统的效用却是毋庸置疑的,时至今天仍然被广泛使用。
为庆祝Monogram帆布系列诞生一百周年,路易·威登于1996年诚邀设计师创作独一无二的旅行箱包。各大师的作品于世界各国的首都巡回展出,与全球时装爱好者一同分享品牌的创新和合作精神。
品 类:时装、成衣、化妆品、配饰、鞋
标志风格:高贵、高雅
创 始 人:嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿(Gabrielle Chanel)
诞 生 地:法国
诞生时间:1913年
当今香奈儿已成为时尚领先锋,产品包括服饰,化妆品,珠宝等。
Gabrielle Chanel was born in Saumur (France) on August 19th 1883 under the sign of Leo to parents of a modest background. In 1910, she opened her first shop at 21 rue Cambon in Paris, creating hats under the name “CHANEL Modes”. Favored by the most famous French actresses of the time, her designs helped to establish her reputation. Gabrielle Chanel's simple elegant style of dress created a sensation, and was soon imitated by all of Paris.
Gabrielle Chanel opened a new boutique in Deauville, France in 1913, and introduced a collection of sportswear. Her line of jersey garments proved revolutionary and changed women's relationships with their bodies and their ways of life. It was an immediate success. In 1915, Her reputation was now firmly established and Mademoiselle Chanel opened her first Couture House in Biarritz, France.
In 1921, Mademoiselle Chanel unveiled her first fragrance, the iconic CHANEL N°5. Created by Ernest Beaux, former perfumer to the Czars, N°5 was so called because it was the fifth scent presented to Mademoiselle Chanel. A truly timeless classic, N°5 remains the ultimate symbol of femininity . In 1924, CHANEL presented the first makeup collection, featuring lip colours and face powders. In the same year, the “Sociétédes Parfums CHANEL” was founded and was dedicated to creating unique fragrances and beauty products.
In 1940s, Gabrielle Chanel was at the height of her fame. She employed 4,000 workers and owned five boutiques on rue Cambon in Paris. But when the World War II broke out, the House of CHANEL was compelled to closure. Among the five boutiques on rue Cambon, only one remained open: the store at number 31, where perfumes and accessories continued to be in high demand among Parisians and American soldiers alike.
At the age of 71, Gabrielle Chanel staged the grand re-opening of her Couture House. Tired of the fashions of the time, she inspired a second fashion revolution with her original creations.
In February of 1955, Gabrielle Chanel launched the iconic 2.55 quilted handbag, naming the style after the date of its creation. Combining leather and gold chain, she invented a supple new style of shoulder strap that was uniquely strong and light, and that allowed a woman's hands to remain free.
The fascination with CHANEL grew, as the most celebrated stars of the time—Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Fonda, Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and Jeanne Moreau—wore the latest fashions from CHANEL.
The House of CHANEL expanded with the introduction of its first Ready-to-Wear collection and the worldwide distribution of its line of iconic accessories in 1978.
In 1987, the first line of CHANEL Watches was launched with the creation of the PREMIÈRE watch, designed by Jacques Helleu. The dial of the watch recalled the shape of both place Vendôme and the stopper of the iconic N°5 bottle.
In 1993, a milestone was reached with the launch of the first CHANEL Fine Jewelry collection in the heart of the place Vendôme in Paris. In 1997, CHANEL established 18 place Vendôme as the home of CHANEL Fine Jewelry.
In 2002, CHANEL acquired eight Parisian speciality ateliers to establish PARAFFECTION, a company consisting of Desrues (metalworker), Lemarié (flower and feather craftsmen), Maison Michel (milliner), Maison Lesage (embroiderer), Massaro (shoemaker), Goossens (goldsmith), Guillet (floral accessory expert) and Atelier Montex (embroiderer). In doing so, CHANEL supported the historic arts, and preserved the unique expertise of fashion's traditional craftsmen.
femininity [ ] n. 温柔;柔弱性;女子本性
at the height of 在……的顶峰或鼎盛时期
expertise [ ] n. 专门技术
嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿于1883年8月19日出生于法国索缪一个寒微的家庭,狮子座。1910年,她在巴黎康朋街21号开设了自己的第一家女帽店,以“香奈儿时尚”为名,制作帽子。她的设计受到当时最著名的法国女演员的垂青,也为她带来了美誉。嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿简洁优雅的着装风格引起轰动,很快被整个巴黎竞相效仿。
1913年,嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿在法国杜维埃开设了一家服饰店,推出运动服饰系列。她设计的针织服装具有革命性的意义,改变了女性与自己的身体以及生活方式的关系,并立即大获成功。1915年,声誉卓著的香奈儿在法国比亚利兹开设了自己的第一家个人品牌时装屋。
1921年,香奈儿推出自己的第一款香水,标志性的“香奈儿N°5”。香奈儿N°5由前沙皇宫廷调香师恩尼斯·鲍调制,之所以叫做5号,是因为这是他呈给香奈儿女士的第5款香水。香奈儿N°5是永恒经典的象征,至今仍是女性之美的极致标志。1924年,香奈儿推出第一个化妆品系列,以唇彩和蜜粉为主打。同年成立“香奈儿香水公司”,致力于生产独一无二的香水和美容用品。
20世纪40年代,嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿的声誉达到鼎盛期。她雇用了4000名工人,在巴黎康朋街拥有5家精品店。而随着第二次世界大战爆发,香奈儿公司被迫关闭。康朋街的5家店中,只有康朋街31号仍继续营业,因为巴黎人和美国士兵仍然对香水和配饰有大量的需求。
71岁时,香奈儿重返高级女装界。对当时的时尚潮流倍感厌倦的她,用自己独创的作品掀起了第二次时装革命。
1955年2月,嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿推出标志性的2.55菱格纹手袋,并以诞生的年月为其命名。她将皮革与金色链带相结合,发明了一种全新风格的柔韧肩带,既结实又轻巧,可以将女性的双手解放出来。
随着当时最著名的明星——伊丽莎白·泰勒、简·方达、杰奎琳·肯尼迪、格蕾丝·凯利和让娜·莫罗纷纷穿上香奈儿的最新时装,人们对香奈儿的迷恋也与日俱增。
1978年,高级成衣诞生。香奈儿品牌拓展业务,推出第一个高级成衣系列,并进一步向全球推广标志性的配饰系列。
1987年,香奈儿推出第一款腕表系列PREMIÈRE,由贾克·海卢设计。表盘形似芳登广场以及标志性的香奈儿N°5香水瓶瓶盖的轮廓。
1993年,香奈儿迎来全新里程碑,在巴黎芳登广场核心地带推出第一个香奈儿高级珠宝系列。1997年,香奈儿在芳登广场18号设立高级珠宝总店。
2002年,香奈儿将八家巴黎高级手工坊收入旗下,成立了PARAFFECTION子公司,包括:Desrues服饰珠宝坊,Lemarié山茶花及羽饰坊,Michel制帽坊,Lesage刺绣坊,Massaro鞋履坊,Goossens金银饰坊,Guillet花饰坊,以及Montex刺绣坊。通过这一方法,香奈儿不仅为传统的手工艺提供了支持,同时也保存了传统工匠的独特技术。